In the 1920s Cartier came out with their famous Tutti Frutti collection. The brilliant gemstones of ruby, emerald, and sapphire were set into platinum studded with small diamonds and each piece was a unique creation based around the gems on hand. While the average consumer could never have afforded a piece like Cartier, the Tutti Frutti pieces made bright and playful designs more acceptable for women of all income levels. Copies of this style were soon being created and continue to be popular today.

“Tutti Frutti” itself has become one of the most instantly recognisable jewellery styles of the 20th century, with the relative rarity of pieces only adding to its desirability. The history of its design is as compelling as its riotous colours. Cartier was first inspired by the carved coloured gemstones of Indian jewellery in 1901 when Queen Alexandra, consort to the newly crowned Edward VII, commissioned Pierre Cartier to create a necklace that would compliment three Indian dresses she had been given by Mary Curzon, wife of the Viceroy of India.